How To Stainless Works Headers

Wilson said:

you forgot wilson's e-30 clean pipes and start it with just the headers start it with just the headers sounded bad ass.

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I'll link the videos I have.

korbendallas said:

Very useful write up! How much easier do you think it would have been if you were able to put the truck on a lift?

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Honestly, not much. I can see it making the install more comfortable. Less work on your back with your arm constantly falling asleep. The motor mount bolt that gave me so much trouble took so long because I had to rest my arm every 2-3 turns. I didn't have any trouble with clearance issues though.

I'll try and take pictures if I can. I have a feeling I'm going to be leaving my truck in the hobby shop over night.

I did this installation this week. MobileBeats instructions are VERY good. Thank You! I was lucky enough to have a lift and the help of a mechanic so it went very fast. From beginning to end took just at 9 hours. I did a few extra steps based on other peoples experiences. We wrapped the starter to protect from the heat of the headers. We welded all the joints (except the header attachment) to prevent twisting. We also modified the rear stock hanger to add another point of attachment to keep the exhaust from bouncing.

extra hanger and welds

Awesome!

Nice job guys and good write up Zach.


I like the extra hanger location.
Where did you get the parts from?


For anyone interested, I have a set of locking bolts never used that I can sell you.

Yukon Joe
www.RUNRAPTORRUN.com

I made the extra hanger out of the stock rear exhaust hanger that was no longer needed and some rod. The hanger needed to be modified to fit flush. I bent the rod to wrap around the exhaust pipe and then up to the hanger. Then I marked the holes and drilled into the frame to use the stock bolts and clips. The system still flexes a bit, but should hold up to some aggressive off road. The test will be TRR14.

hey guys im installing my headers too right now, but can get 2 top nuts from the passenger side and 2 bottom one from the driver... i guess because i didnt took those 3 bolts from the motor mount.. cause i could find a safe way to lift up the engine, so a wood block could do the trick?, also i want to get rid of the studs, but a e8 torx?! wth! 6mm will do it?

You are gonna need to left the engine. The headers won't go in without the motor mount removed.

I put a block of wood under the oil pan and jacked it up there.

I'd never heard of an e8 torx. I used something along those lines to get them out. Just be careful not to strip it because vice grips are a pita to get them out.

thanks mobile! working on it right now... another thing is that ill probably forget about taking the stock studs out, cause SW send me the wrong F bolts! 1.50 instead of 1.25! damn! guess im using the stock ones...

about the oil pan.. did you lift it from where the oil plug is or a little more to the front where its flat?! ... that seems a good spot right?