PART 2 - Dash Mounted Switches
The console removal can be another thread in itself, see end of the thread for a link to Busa’s DIY Video for dash disassembly, or PM me and I can walk you through it. I’ve had my dash apart a handful of times now for NAVTV issues.
Console Nook removal
I chose the right storage pocket for my switches, as the left side was occupied by my trailer brake. If you do not have a trailer brake, I recommend using the left side nook for your switches, as it requires less “clearancing”.
With the side console cover removed, you will need to make the switch opening. I cut the storage pocket off close to the cover base and carefully dremeled down the material until I got flush with the inside of the grey cover. Later learned an easier approach might be to carefully drill out the 2 plastic rivets, and then the pocket can be more easily removed. With the console cover opening free of the pocket, you are now able to mock up the switch block and understand how much clearancing is necessary.
Dash clearancing
With the underside dash frame exposed, you will need to make room for the switch block. With a dremel (or your preferred cutting device), begin widening the opening in the plastic dash support. Take your time and continue until your switch block will fit (my initial fitments were done without the switch block bezel on, its clips on/off).
You will eventually trim a small amount of material off the ends of the switch bezel as well, but gradually clearance this and the opening until your switch panel fits. Keep intact two square openings , as these accept the console panel clips. One is to the lower left of the switch block opening, the 2nd is below and to the right. There isn’t much additional room side to side, so grinding/cutting down gradual and evenly was my tactic.
Pics of sides cut
I excessively taped off the whole dash initially, but some final tweaks later in project without protection left me with a nick in paint. Luckily that portion of the dash is covered by one of the console covers.
While the driver’s side nook will not have this issue, my passenger side required some additional clearancing of the aluminum dash brace. Given the minimal space to get a dremel in, I choose to make a single cut, and fold a portion of the brace back to give the switches room to insert fully. I used a hammer and extension, but a dremel adapter might be less of a caveman approach. Once the switch block fits, begin to mock up the side console cover to confirm alignment. Additional steps of clearancing may be required to get the correct alignment, using just the switch bezel alone is an easier process for alignment.
Opening showing alum frame cut and bend
Once clearance and alignment is good, use your preferred plastic adhesive to glue the bezel to the console cover. My adhesive (3M ??) was slightly corrosive to the bezel plastic, so using less for the first round is recommended, to avoid glue running. I let my adhesive sit for several hours, and confirmed fitment again with just the bezel installed on the cover. Once all was good, I clipped the switch block into the switch bezel on the console cover and reinstalled all the dash components. The switch block is still easily accessible for attaching the harness, you will reach around through the glovebox and plug in your harness.
Mock up bezel on console cover
w/ switches
Final look
Pic at night
Easy Access Forward Junction Box
I probably had a hundred feet of wasted wire from previous light setups that were eventually bundled into another loom, and later cut and left. To clean/organize things up and simplify upgrades/changes down the road, I chose to add this sealed junction box up towards the front of the truck, closer to the accessories. The box is sourced off amazon, see end of thread for details.
This box can be mounted anywhere in the engine bay area, for easiest access I chose to mount mine beside the passenger headlight ( behind the rubber splash guard). I included above a template to make a bracket for holding your box, it bolts up using 2 of your factory headlight housing screws.
Bracket bare metal
Textured
Using the same type of distribution blocks as I used on the relay panel, I glued 3 in the box. 1 for the new switch block source powers (lights/accessories), 2nd for the factory switch block source powers, and 3rd is a shared ground for both switch block source grounds. The middle block is elevated higher for tiered wiring
Juncbox on bench
Shown with brackets installed
I drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the box for wiring IN & OUT, used some rubber grommets and barriers to keep elementns away from the distribution blocks
Open with first set of sources fed
Back side
Mounted open
Painted - cover
Covered box - top
Covered box
Conclusion:
Definitely a lot of work for “just a few switches”, but if you want the clean look this appeared to be the best route to me. If there is another way to save time, do something better, or more efficiently I absolutely encourage any opinions/comments/feedback.
***Disclaimer - I am not an accredited electronics installer, electrician, mechanic, dentist, or superhero. This write-up is for recreational purposes, proceed at your own risk.***
That said, if you have any questions feel free to PM me, I’m happy to help out in any way I can.
Parts Used:
*Ford Upfitter Switch Panel (PN AL3Z13D730AA Switch Assy 11 F-Series Super Duty - $60)
(
AL3Z13D730AA Switch Assy 10 F150 | eBay )
*Ford Wiring Harness for Switch Panel (PN 3U2Z14S411DLB Wire Assy 10 E150 -$35)
(
3U2Z14S411DLB Wire Assy 10 E250 | eBay )
*Distribution/Terminal blocks – (6)x 30a (Avail at Local Parts Store -$4ea)
(
Dorman® Conduct-Tite!™ 85685 - Junction Box | O'Reilly Auto Parts )
*Fuse Block (Avail at LPS -$10)
(
Cooper Bussmann/6 position ATC fuse panel (BP-15600-06-2) | Fuse and Accessories | AutoZone.com )
*Relays (Bosch Type) & Relay Socket – (4)x 30a ( Avail at LPS - $5)
*Misc sheet of alum/steel/plastic/etc for relay panel
*Misc Wire
*Eyelets & Slip connectors
*Weatherproof Junction Box (Optional - for easy access front panel)
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Our very own CarStereoCompany & IceCobra made a DIY video of removing the dash panels, which can be viewed here:
Nav Tv install and radio removal directions
I’ve had my NAVTV in and out a handful of times so am happy to guide anyone through the dash removal or again, any steps to this DIY.
Tom
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