My Install of a 50 Watt VHF Vertex VX2200

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bigrig

Full Access Member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
684
Reaction score
1,873
Location
San Jose, CA
Installing a 50 Watt VHF Vertex VX2200

After reading one of the prerequisites for joining Raptor Expeditions on their Barstow to Vegas run was to install a 50 watt 2-way radio, I started looking around for one to install. I am no ham radio expert and really have only had experience with the citizen band, but Rugged Radios had a package that looked complete (Car to Car Kit with PTT - VHF Vertex VX2200 50 Watt) and it was on sale ($445.61) so I went for it.

0.jpg


The radio arrived relatively quickly and in good condition. I spent part of this weekend installing it with relative success. The temperatures here today were in the low 40s (that is super freezing for a California kid) so I may have rushed parts of the install where I would normally like to take my time. Overall it turned out pretty good so I wanted to share my experience in hopes it may help others out.

Tools I used:
  • Belt Sander
  • C-clamps
  • Center Punch
  • Crescent Wrench
  • Coat Hanger
  • Drill
  • Files
  • Jigsaw
  • Magnets
  • Needle Nose
  • Socket Set
  • Soldering Iron
  • Tape Measure
  • Torx Set
  • Screw Drivers
  • String
  • Wire Stripper

Installing the Antenna Base:
I decided to mount the antenna on the angled part of the roof near the backup/brake light. It was the strongest and least flexible part of the roof which seemed to me to be the best choice for placement. Also, the backup/brake light, once removed, provided easy access to screw in the coaxial cable.

1.jpg


Drill Hole in Roof:
I applied masking tape to the roof and then measured a center line and used a center punch to mark the place I wanted to drill. I drilled a hole at my mark.

2.jpg


Mount the No Ground Plane Base:
This was just a matter of ******** in the top plate to the center of the base through the roof. I did notice that I had to tighten it more than I initially thought (I didn’t want to mess up the o-ring). I didn’t use crushing force but I did use more than I would have expected. I would equate it to the way it feels when you tighten an oil filter on.

3.jpg


Mount the Antenna:
I mounted the antenna to test for fit and to make sure it was centered.

4.jpg

Optional - Cap the Antenna:
I also ordered a cap that I could place on the antenna base while the antenna wasn’t on the roof, it cost me about $6.00 after shipping.

4.2.jpg


Routing the Antenna Coaxial Cable::

First off, I flipped the switch to lower the seat so I could access the back of the cab. Then I started by removing one of the headliner retainers (these are nylon pushpins) as well as the interior plastic body panel that covers the rear passenger seatbelt. This had one bolt at the top, several pressure fittings down the body panel and a two nylon pushpins at the bottom.

Headline retainer:
I tried to be gentle with this, the nylon pushpins always get compromised every time I take them out and I am trying to get as much life out of them as I can.

5.jpg


Top Plastic Body Panel:
There is a bolt up at the top behind a plastic plug. The plug just pops out and the bolt can be unscrewed from there with a socket. I had to be careful not to drop the bolt down behind the body panel as it got loose.

6.jpg

Bottom Plastic Body Body Panel:
There are two nylon pushpins at the bottom. You can see where one of them was in this picture.

7.jpg


Get Access Behind the Body Panel:
Once everything was loose I moved the body panel out a bit so I could more easily route the coaxial cable to the carpet on the floor.

8.jpg

9.jpg

Route Cable Under Carpet:
I took out the subwoofer for this next part. I removed three bolts, one on top towards the back of the cab and two at the feet towards the front of the subwoofer below the plastic covers as well as unhooking the power cable which is a plug under the subwoofer.

10.jpg


I also removed the plastic entry step pad to provide more easy access to under the carpet. I wanted to make sure I got the cable under the carpet and the matting because routing cables between the matting and the carpet is very difficult since it is pretty much glued together.

11.jpg


I routed the cables under the carpet using bent coat hangers and string to feed the wire where I needed it. I cut a hole in the shape of a “T” by the right rear corner of the center console. I pulled the coaxial cable through that and fed it under the center console. (to fully get the cable under the center console I had to remove two bolts at the rear of the center console. They are easily accessible when the front seats are moved forward.


Mounting the Radio::
I started by removing the SYNC faceplate. This allows access to pull up the body panel with the upfitter switches and the cup holders.

12.jpg


Remove Upfitter/Cupholder Body Panel:
I centered the shifter by putting it in Neutral. This piece pops out pretty easily once that is done. Light pulling pressure upwards will make it pop out. I unplugged the 3 plugs under the upfitter switches to fully remove the body panel.

13.jpg


Here is a picture of the three plugs:

14.jpg


Unbolt the shifter:
I wanted to mount my radio on the side wall of the center console, next to my right knee while I was driving. To access this wall I removed the four bolts holding down the shifter. The shifter can then be slided to the right opening up access to the side wall. I should note in the following picture more of the body paneling on the center console was removed. That isn’t necessary, I got a little gung-ho when taking everything apart.

15.jpg


Making the Backing Plate for Radio Mount:
Because the plastic on the center console isn’t super strong I created an aluminum backing plate that I could slide into the inside of the center console to reinforce it. Those of you with good eyes will notice that the holes are not centered, that was where the cold got the better of me. I think my garage was about 30 degrees at that point and I rushed making this piece. But because this piece wasn’t going to be seeing the light of day anyway, I used it. I should also note that I had aspirations of mounting it in three places, but space ultimately required me to mount it in only two.

16.jpg


Making the Spacer Plate for Radio Mount:
Because of the contours of the body paneling on the center console I had to create a spacer to mount in between the radio mount and the center console to provide proper clearance for the wires and to make sure the radio didn’t rattle against the center console.

17.jpg


Mount the Spacer, Backing Plate, and Radio Mount Together:
This is the whole thing put together without the radio.

18.jpg


Here it is with the radio mounted and with the body panels back in place:

20.jpg


You can see the backing plate here and how it compensates for the contours:

19.jpg


Wiring:
I wired the radio to the third upfitter switch (Aux 3). I drilled a hole in the silver plastic trim to route the wires through for power. I am not sure I would suggest this to anyone since doing so now requires that I disconnect the wires if I ever want to get the silver trim off. I used lever connectors that are easily accessible through the side port near the driver's right foot to make it so it wouldn’t be as cumbersome to get the trim off in the future but I am sure there are better ways of doing this.

I hope this post helps anyone trying to do this on their own. It took me about a day to complete the whole thing. Now, I just need someone to talk to :)

Measure twice, cut once, have fun, enjoy the process.
~bigrig
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
bigrig

bigrig

Full Access Member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
684
Reaction score
1,873
Location
San Jose, CA
I will be doing an install next week, thank you for the good walk through!

Good luck on your install!

I will be posting some more pics in a day or so showing the mic mount and the wiring, not sure if that will help any but I sort of felt like I cut this short at the end (it got too dark and cold to continue taking photos).
 

Kahuna

THE MORE YOU PLAY WITH IT, THE BIGGER IT GETS
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Posts
870
Reaction score
794
Thank you for the write up!

I am in the process of installing mine and am complete apart from drilling the roof and running the coax. Can I ask why you drilled so far back? Wouldn't you have had better reception from the rear if you had drilled a foot or so forward? Was the strength trade-off something you considered?

Thanks,
K
 
OP
OP
bigrig

bigrig

Full Access Member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
684
Reaction score
1,873
Location
San Jose, CA
Thank you for the write up!

I am in the process of installing mine and am complete apart from drilling the roof and running the coax. Can I ask why you drilled so far back? Wouldn't you have had better reception from the rear if you had drilled a foot or so forward? Was the strength trade-off something you considered?

Thanks,
K

I chose that spot mostly because the metal on the roof was strongest at that point. As you move forward on the cab (I have a super crew) the roof becomes more flexible. I was trying to avoid having the roof and antenna flex while driving at speed.

With regards to reception and distance on two way radios, it is my understanding that it is the height of the antenna that really makes a difference and that the placement doesn't affect reception the same way as it might with a radio operating at different frequencies (i.e. Citizen Band). Let me caveat all this by saying I am a n00b to two-way radios so if someone wants to lay down the law here, please do, you won't hurt my feelings.

Good luck with your mount Kahuna!
 
OP
OP
bigrig

bigrig

Full Access Member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
684
Reaction score
1,873
Location
San Jose, CA
The ideal location would be in the center of the roof.

Hi ATW, thanks for the comment. Wouldn't the center of the roof mounting be more applicable if I was using the roof as a ground plane? I thought when using a no ground plane antenna (like the one that comes with the Vertex kit I purchased), I didn't need to worry as much about mounting location.

I will be a little sad if I have to drill another hole in my roof to make it work better, for now I am going to keep it as is and update later if I find out that my reception is significantly hindered.
 

All The Way

FRF Addict
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Posts
1,878
Reaction score
1,080
Location
Lockport, NY
Unless you're using a dipole or beam type antenna, you will need some kind of ground plane. Whether it be the vehicle or radials at the base of the antenna. You don't need to drill a new hole. Just keep that in mind for the future.
I have mine mounted on the bed rail... I'm always using mine so a higher mounting location would end a lot of antennas in the city. I know its a compromise but it still performs well.
 
OP
OP
bigrig

bigrig

Full Access Member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
684
Reaction score
1,873
Location
San Jose, CA
Unless you're using a dipole or beam type antenna, you will need some kind of ground plane. Whether it be the vehicle or radials at the base of the antenna. You don't need to drill a new hole. Just keep that in mind for the future.
I have mine mounted on the bed rail... I'm always using mine so a higher mounting location would end a lot of antennas in the city. I know its a compromise but it still performs well.

Roger Wilco. I'll try to follow up on this thread later to report on how good or bad my reception is after I have had a chance to use it for a while. Thanks again for the info ATW!
 

DezertRacer

Supporting Vendor
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Apr 18, 2014
Posts
632
Reaction score
256
Location
Las Vegas,NV
We run a lot of them in the same location towards the back of the truck . We get great reception from them and strong signals . maybe a 1-1.5 db difference I would think from dead center of the roof
 
Top