Kicker Sub Upgrade How-To

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Mariner

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@cgibs89 do you per chance have a link to where you bought your sub? It's my next upgrade and I want to make sure I get the right one for my SCab
 
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cgibs89

cgibs89

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See I was not crazy.. I ******* out the Kicker techs when I received my kit and it said to tap the signal into the door speaker. They were to cheap to make a model with the proper plug to just connect to the factory sub connector for signal and updated wire harness.

I'm honestly surprised as well. It sounds like crap compared to using the actual sub input as the speaker signal makes the sub real muddy.

@cgibs89 do you per chance have a link to where you bought your sub? It's my next upgrade and I want to make sure I get the right one for my SCab

I bought it off of eBay from Fairway Ford but the bidding ended and I think they're out of the systems. They were up for a great price, $289.

09 thru 14 F150 Genuine Ford Kicker 200 Watt 10" Subwoofer Kit Extended Cab | eBay
 

Mariner

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Okay thanks. That's the exact one I found online and I just wanted to make sure. It was 289 when I saw it in stock too, I wish I had grabbed it then :(

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NJStangersJonathan

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So I got some time today to do just this as I was curious and quickly realized after the install, while the bass was definitely increased all around, the low end (<80-ish Hz) was terrible. It was extremely muddy as well so I said "why not?".

Wow did this make a difference. If you want the sub to produce the proper sub frequencies, pull the signal wires out of the harness and run them directly to the stock sub signal. I spliced both pairs together with the factory sub harness and I get much better sub-100Hz production and it sounds so much clearer. Lamb of God drumming doesn't sound like a mess of bass but now precise kicks and thuds.

Here's what I did since I wanted to keep stuff looking "stock" and not just cut off a system connector. I pulled the harness out of the factory sub to use for splicing and so I could rip it all apart if I (no idea why) wanted to put the stock sub back in.

4VSzUZn.png

I spliced these wrong after re-reading your comment but I just went and fixed it and yeah, phase is a huge deal. For those wondering, the white and white/light gray wires are positive which the green wire goes to, white/blue and white/grey are negative which the brown wire goes to.
rwGUz8s.png

Finished harness. Again, this picture I had it reversed so do the opposite.
pd36q6w.png

And then just plug everything together and enjoy your actual low-end with the sub. It kicks even harder now.

Big thanks for the visuals and to SilentShooter for this idea....what about the rest of the Kicker Harness, no need to run it to the engine bay or thats still needed...just a pita to run a wire all thru a crew cab.

---------- Post added at 10:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 PM ----------

I'm honestly surprised as well. It sounds like crap compared to using the actual sub input as the speaker signal makes the sub real muddy.



I bought it off of eBay from Fairway Ford but the bidding ended and I think they're out of the systems. They were up for a great price, $289.

09 thru 14 F150 Genuine Ford Kicker 200 Watt 10" Subwoofer Kit Extended Cab | eBay

Killer price, have to see if they have a Crew Cab one.
 

brettmess24

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So for a 14 screw application does it matter which kit you buy as long as it's for the screw? I have the 801A package Sony and nav

I'm guessing it's the harness that I wouldn't use?
 
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