Rigid 20" Lightbar & Duallys - Installation Instructions

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MagicMtnDan

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I've been jumping between threads to find the info I need so I thought I'd start a thread on installing Rigid Industries' 20" Lightbar and their Duallys.

I'll start by posting the installation instructions from Rigid and add my comments after and others can add theirs.



Here are the installation instructions provided by Taylor at Rigid Industries

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Congratulations on your purchase from Rigid Industries.
Here are the instructions for installation of your new Rigid Lights on the
2010 Ford SVT Raptor

Rigid Industries lights:
20” E-Series LED Light Bar with Cradle for Lower Grill Mount.
Dually Fog Lights w/Brackets.

Wiring Instructions for Auxiliary switches

**Always disconnect battery before servicing any fuses or electrical system**

Your Raptor is equipped with four factory “Upfitter” auxiliary switches. We need to get power to them. There are two locations that need to be addressed; inside the glove box and in the engine compartment under the hood. We will start with the glove box.

Open the glove box normally and empty out all contents. On the rear right and left sides there are tabs holding the box in place. Inside of the glove box: reach into the left and right inside of the box, pull in the sides where there is a tab holding it in place, the box should swing downward and towards the floor of the truck.

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Glove box tab released.
Inside of the glove box area there is an access panel. Pull towards you to remove it and expose the wiring under the dashboard. After removing the access panel you will need to locate two bundles of 4 wires each. These wires are what you will need to mate to gain switch control to your lights.

03-InsideAccessPanelcopy.jpg

Wiring bundles after access panel is removed.

The switches will be wired as follows:

Aux switch 1 - 20” Lower grill LED Light (mate red to yellow)
Aux switch 2 - pair of inner fog lights (mate green to green w/black stripe)
Aux switch 3 - pair of outer fog lights (mate blue to purple)

If you would like switches set up differently, swap wiring where needed. Refer to your owners manual if you have any questions.

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Mated wiring using butt connectors to show detail

Insert access panel and close glove box door while pulling in on the tabs.

Engine Compartment wiring

Open the hood of the truck and disconnect the battery. Locate the Power Distribution Box (page 365 in your owners manual). Open the box and you will notice the fuses are numbered.

Switch fuses are as follows: (page 326-329 in owners manual)

Switch# location Stock fuse Fuse needed for LED Light

1 18 30amp 10amp for 20” E-Series
2 19 30amp 5amp for pair of Dually’s
3 44 15amp 5amp for pair of Dually’s
4 28 10amp

Your lights will operate normally with the stock fuse configuration. We highly recommend changing to the proper fuse noted to protect your lights against potential damage from being over fused.

Locating the under-hood wiring for accessory hookup

It is on the passenger side of the truck above the wheel well. There are 4 wires, Blue, Red, Green, and Purple. Refer to your owners manual if you need help locating these.

Red wire is for the 20” Lower Grill LED (switch 1)
Green wire is for pair of inner Dually fog lights (switch 2)
Blue wire is for pair of outer Dually fog lights (switch 3)

These are the hot wires that will be connecting your lights to your switches.
The ground loops from your wiring harness and will be secured using the self drilling TEK screw installed next to the battery on the passenger side of inner fender. There are also stock bolts on the fender well that can be used if needed. Standard grounding principles apply.

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Wiring connected to light harness
Engine compartment wiring connected to light harness.

Installing lower grill 20” LED lights, or pairs of smaller lights.

The lower grill assembly is located under the license plate holes in the front bumper. There
are 5 hex screws. Use a 7/32 hex driver to remove these. Pull plastic grill forward to remove and expose inner bumper frame.

06-LowerGrilleRemovedcopy.jpg

Lower grill removed.

Trimming your bumperettes (mini bumpers on either side of the lower grill)

We have found it easier to remove both bumperettes. Pull outward firmly for this stage. Just keep in mind that re-installing them can be tricky. There are four tabs on the backside of each bumerette, they are pliable. Bend the lower tabs outward and slide them under the base. Using a skinny screwdriver or small pick, pry the upper tabs out and into the slot on the top of the bumperette base. Modifying the bumperettes can be done without removing them. It just makes tightening the light into the cradle a little tricky.

To modify bumperettes drill ½” hole (per drawing) and cut out plastic to the edge.

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Above: Hole drilled

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Above: Cutouts made

Installing the cradle for lower grill lights

Locate inner bumper frame, mark and drill two (1/2”) holes, one on each side per drawing.

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10-DriversSideBumperBracketcopy.jpg

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Lower Bumper Opening

Once you have the holes drilled for the cradle, insert the supplied carriage bolts into the slots on the light. Make sure slots for the light are facing up. Loosely bolt it into place using supplied washers and nylon lock nuts.

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Bracket bolted in place loosely

Attaching the light to the cradle (make sure slots in bracket are facing up)

Rigid Industries E-Series lights are mounted using a black Delrin spacer/bushing and nylon lock nut on the end mount studs. The Delrin provides needed shock resistance, while the nut holds it in place.

Insert supplied Delrin bushing onto the end mount stud into endcap cavity of light. Then loosely spin on the nylon lock nut. Set the light into cradle and tighten until the light is snug in the cradle. Center light/cradle assembly in grill opening and tighten cradle nylon lock nuts on backside of bumper frame. Make your final adjustments, tighten end stud nylon lock nuts on light.

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Above: Lightbar in place (left side)

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Above: Lightbar in place (right side)

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Above: Light and Bumperettes installed


Installing Fog Lights/Brackets

Locate the two aluminum fog light bracket plates.

Passenger Driver

The above picture shows non powder coated aluminum for detail of locating and drilling holes.

Laying under passenger side of fog light opening, locate painted steel support beam. It should be painted the same color as your truck.

Line up flat side of rear of bracket with backside of support beam and slide it inboard against the step down on the beam. The forward edge of the bracket, stepped down section with two holes, should be lining up with your fog light opening. Mark the 4 holes and drill using a 3/16” drill bit.


16-Bracketincorrectpositioncopy.jpg

Above: Bracket in correct position (do not mount brackets yet)

Repeat for driver side. Remove black cap plug on beam, reinstall into larger hole in bracket, after bracket is in place. Do not mount brackets yet! Lights need to be installed onto them first.



Mounting Dually’s to bracket

Notice how the brackets are mounted (stepped down section forward lining up with the fog opening). Mount Dually lights on the bottom of the plate as they are suspended from the bracket. Tighten cradle screws (on each side of light) then tighten main cradle stud onto the bracket with supplied hardware. Make sure the large flat washer is between the bracket and cradle of light. You will need to adjust these to line them up. Hold the bracket in place on the vehicle to get an idea of where you want them placed. Take the time here as it gets more difficult once mounted on the truck.

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Above: Dually with washer (then mount to bracket)

18-Driverssidewithlightsmountedcopy.jpg

Above: Drivers Side with lights mounted.

Once adjusted hold bracket in place and install four supplied hex head screws per bracket with a 3/8” drive socket.

Installing the wiring harnesses

Lower Grill lights
With the truck prewired for accessories it is fairly simple to wire.
The 20” E-Series harness (hot wire is red) is soldered or, if you prefer, crimped with a butt connector to the red hot wire under the hood by the wheel well. The black wire is grounded with the supplied TEK screw, (included in kit) or grouped with the other grounds if installing fog light kit. Fish the plug end (male weatherpak connector) down behind the headlight bucket and over to the lower grill area. Plug into the light.

Fog Lights
Repeat above. For inner fog lights, connect the red wire to green wire on truck. For outer fog lights connect the red wire to blue wire on truck. Fish the male connectors down and over to connect to female connectors on fog lights.

Make sure all of your grounds are tied together and grounded. Check that all hardware is tight.


Thank you again for your purchase from Rigid Industries
PH 480-655-0100

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MagicMtnDan

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Note: I'd really appreciate it if someone would post instructions on connecting the Upfitter switches to lights. Rigid's instructions are OK but not nearly detailed enough for first-timers (IMO). I'll add my input but I'm sure others who have connected to the Upfitter switches can add more value.

The Rigid kit is terrific - it has everything including powder-coated brackets for the Duallys (small, square lights), wiring, and installation instructions.

You will need a good drill, 1/2" drill bit (for the 20" lightbar) and a 3/8" drillbit for the Duallys. Other tools will be needed including deepwell sockets, hex key, 3/8" socket for Duallys, curved pick if you're removing the bumperettes, safety glasses, a pad or old blanket to lay on and others.

Some notes on the Rigid Installation and instructions:

* The bolts Rigid provided for the 20" lightbar are different (better) than the ones shown in the pics. The supplied bolts have square shoulders so they don't need the washers in front of the bracket which is what they show in their instructions. I put the washers in the back of the steel plate that the bracket mounts to (the washer's in back of the steel plate in front of the lock nuts). It's nice how the square shoulders of the bolts fit into the slots in the mounting bracket and keep the bolts from turning.

Bumperettes - this only applies to the 20" lightbar installation

* Now that I've done the installation I'd recommend NOT removing the bumperettes. Why? The tabs on the right bumperette were "deformed" and not very long making them unreliable for reattaching them securely to the "crash pad" behind the bumperettes. I suspect the crash pad and bumperette are assembled at Ford off the truck making it much easier to put them together. And I believe the bumperette assembly is bonded to the Raptor's bumper with one-time adhesive. I'd like to find out if this is true. And I'd like to see what the cost of a set of bumperettes is like.

* If you don't remove the bumperettes you can mark the location of the holes to drill in them (one 1/2" hole in each bumperette) with the mounting bracket installed - use a Sharpie pushed through the mounting hole in the bracket to mark the hole location on the bumperette. Remove the bracket and then drill the 1/2" hole.

* If you're going to remove the bumperettes to drill holes and use the holes to make slots (per the Rigid instructions), there's no drawing that I saw in the instructions yet the instructions do mention drilling the holes per the drawing. As noted above I used the bracket to mark the hole locations in the bumperettes.

Duallys

* Make sure you note which Dually lights are which. I got two pairs of white (no amber) lights and two of them are fog and two are spot. Unfortunately I did pay attention to the boxes they came in which noted on the sticker which lights are which. I think I can tell which are which but I need to talk to Taylor to confirm this. If you ordered two of each you might want to use painters tape and the Sharpie to mark them so it won't be an issue when you take them out of the boxes.

I'll add more later as I complete my installation.
 
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MagicMtnDan

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When installing the Dually brackets...

16-Bracketincorrectpositioncopy.jpg

Note: the above picture is looking up from underneath on the driver's side (it has the black rubber and insert in it - it's pushed through the large hole in the mounting plate/bracket as you can see here).

The instructions aren't entirely clear where the brackets go. It's easier than the instruction might lead you to believe. Some notes:

* There's a right and left mounting plate/bracket!

* The bracket used on the driver's side will use the large hole (which is in both brackets). The large hole in the bracket isn't used on the passenger side. On the driver's side there's an insert that has to be removed (pry it out of the hole in the frame - I used a tool that goes on both sides of the insert/stud to remove it). The insert is attached to the rubber material. Once you've removed it you can install the bracket and then push the insert back into the hole.

* Per the instructions do not mount the plate/bracket until you've mounted and adjusted the Dually lights to the brackets. Note that if you have spots and floods you'll want to make sure you know which is which and where you're mounting them on the brackets.
 
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MagicMtnDan

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Wow, thanks for posting that! I never thought to search YouTube for that info. Note that the videographer of that video shows removing the bolts for the glovebox which I don't think is necessary since you can flip the glovebox down and out of the way without removing them (see Rigid instructions).
 

IRONMAN2

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Wow, thanks for posting that! I never thought to search YouTube for that info. Note that the videographer of that video shows removing the bolts for the glovebox which I don't think is necessary since you can flip the glovebox down and out of the way without removing them (see Rigid instructions).

It kinda hits you in the chest and allows your left arm to move freely. Onlt take a sec.
 

SVTRay

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Thanks Dan,

I should have my duallys here in a few days and I was wondering about a lot of this stuff.
 
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