SPD turbo adapters and Kooks catted downpipe install tips/help

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Onemoosehorn

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2018
Posts
290
Reaction score
99
So I have my SPD turbo adapters, stud kit, stud extractor, and Kooks catted downpipes. I’m no stranger to wrenching on my vehicles myself, so I’m not worried about that. But does anyone has any tips or suggestions for the install. Looks pretty straightforward from what I can see. Found some videos on the turbo adapters install, but not much on the downpipes swap. Looking to tackle this job this weekend myself.
 

awc557

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2018
Posts
19
Reaction score
7
i took my truck to a guy that does work on diesels and turbo trucks and he still snapped one of the studs using a stud extractor.

down pipes going to be mounted to stock exhaust?
 
OP
OP
O

Onemoosehorn

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2018
Posts
290
Reaction score
99
i took my truck to a guy that does work on diesels and turbo trucks and he still snapped one of the studs using a stud extractor.

down pipes going to be mounted to stock exhaust?



Stock exhaust for now. I want to see how it sounds before I decide if I’m changing anything else. My dealer will take care of the install but they are 3 weeks plus from being able to get it in. I have just over 3600 miles on my truck. How many miles were on yours at the time?
 

k-rub

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Posts
471
Reaction score
200
Location
Tucson, AZ
I would say you almost have to get a torch to remove the stock turbo studs.

Take your time and plan on 6-8 hours if this is your first time doing it.
 

awc557

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2018
Posts
19
Reaction score
7
Mine was done with around 18k miles.

If I were to do it again, I would do the same your doing, Downpipes+adapters to stock exhaust.

When I got my borla s type, I never thought I would want to change the stock dps down the road.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
O

Onemoosehorn

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2018
Posts
290
Reaction score
99
I would say you almost have to get a torch to remove the stock turbo studs.

Take your time and plan on 6-8 hours if this is your first time doing it.

Thanks. I have one of the of the hand held torches. Someone recommended getting the flexible extended attachment for it. I’m picking that up tomorrow. It’s not a daily driver so time isn’t a factor. Can’t be more difficult than working on my supercharged Tundra was, can it...... lol.

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 PM ----------

Mine was done with around 18k miles.

If I were to do it again, I would do the same your doing, Downpipes+adapters to stock exhaust.

When I got my borla s type, I never thought I would want to change the stock dps down the road.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve watched/listened to as many videos as I could have before deciding on the Corsa extreme vs downpipes. And then calling every downpipe manufacturer before deciding on which set of those to go with. I’ll see how happy I’m am with it then. I added an AFE intake last weekend. Turbos sound a little better with it.
 

Riddick

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2015
Posts
291
Reaction score
191
Location
Texas
Sorry Onemoosehorn for a Gen 1 butting in, but wanted to add my .02. I'm no stranger to wrenching either and coming from the diesel world, nothing can't be any worse than working on a Duramax. What I did back in the day was soaked the studs for a couple of days in penetrating oil (like WD-40 specialist), then like trophycummins said, through the heat to it. The hand held torch in the yellow bottle works much better than the blue ones. Never broke a stud and most all came out with very little effort.
 
OP
OP
O

Onemoosehorn

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2018
Posts
290
Reaction score
99
Sorry Onemoosehorn for a Gen 1 butting in, but wanted to add my .02. I'm no stranger to wrenching either and coming from the diesel world, nothing can't be any worse than working on a Duramax. What I did back in the day was soaked the studs for a couple of days in penetrating oil (like WD-40 specialist), then like trophycummins said, through the heat to it. The hand held torch in the yellow bottle works much better than the blue ones. Never broke a stud and most all came out with very little effort.



Thanks. I’m going to pick up a bottle of Mapp gas to use. I believe that’s the yellow bottle. I’m hoping they aren’t to bad with only 3600 miles on it.
 
Top